The hexapus is a gizmo I've made up that allows me to switch which of my two loopers is upstream from the other (in series). It allows me to bounce loops back and forth between them. It can also be useful for people looping with separate effect units, switching the effects before or after the looper. Or for those using two effect units, you can switch which one gets the signal first. Rather than marketing it and becoming rich (as several people have suggested), I'd rather people learn how to do it themselves. To that end, here are instructions for making one. 13 hexapuses have been made so far... that I know of.
The switch I used is a 4 pole 2 way toggle switch:
http://www.radioparts.com.au/product/41373501/st3501-toggle-switch-3amp-4pdt-solder-terminals-4-pole#.VRABKWYoky4
They're at Jaycar too or you could order it online. But note that an "On On" is probably better than an "On Off On"(a toggle switch has a rocker that slides from side to side, joining the middle pins to the left or the right, but it may also have a annoying middle position that either joins or disconnects them all). You only need 3 of the poles (note the unused pole at the bottom of the diagram). I've made a footswitch one for Adam Page with this: https://www.jaycar.com.au/3pdt-heavy-duty-foot-switch/p/SP0766 , see below... the only disadvantage is that you have to remember which way it's switched... shouldn't be too tricky!
Get 3 mono patch leads (jack to jack) and cut them in half. Label each of the six jacks clearly, as it can get horribly confusing! On each one, expose a few centimetres of the end of the cut cable, separating out the active wire from the earth (copper windings). I use a pocket knife for this... carefully! This can be a tedious process, but try to unmesh the earth neatly and twist it into one wire. Then expose a few millimetres of the active wire, ready for soldering. You'll also need 3 little bits of wire (coated) to join across the switch (shown on the diagram in grey). Any coated wire will do. Before soldering, I reckon you should study the wiring diagram (below) and get your head around the flow of the signal. Once you think you've sussed it, solder the appropriate active ends to the switch pins and then solder all the earths together. Remember to coat the parts you're soldering with nice fresh solder before you join them and try not to leave the soldering iron in contact for too long (to avoid melting any plastic parts). Good luck!
I originally had my input and output leads as sockets (rather than plugs), but they were dodgy, and after much searching found it was better to use plugs and have a female to female adaptor when I needed a socket. I'm displaying one in my right hand in the photo: They're quite cheap, easy to find, and a much more reliable socket than any others I could find... go figure!
Encasing the switch in a purple bubble blower bottle, adorned with googly eyes, isn't absolutely necessary, but it does protect the wiring, makes it easier to switch and certainly adds to the vibe!
Well, have fun and do let me know if you make one, so I can add it to the tally. Bewdy, love, Mal
Note: In the above diagram, the blue, green and white wires have a choice of 2 pins they can connect to, due to the grey linking wires.
And here it is as a schematic (thanks to Gerand Hook):
My rewired Hexapus in my 2015 setup. Note that I've changed the colour coding, just for fun! Note also, the rotary mute switch and custom non-latching mute button on my mic cable (for "dings"), the custom "two from one" power adaptor and the "everyone should have one" passive di on the line out. On the mixer, I have the loopers coming out of the right line out and back into an aux, and the left line out is the output, so I can us the pan knobs to choose how much of each instrument goes to the loopers... it took me quite a while to come up with that!
And here's the Adam Page special:
